Nine Villages and A Dragon 九寨沟 – The Landscape of Jiuzhaigou

on September 9, 2020

Jiu Zhai Gou （九寨沟）is a fairy land in the northern part of Sichuan Province, China. It is named after 9 villages that scattered along a Y-shape valley. The aboriginals who still live inside the park are predominantly ethnic Tibetan. The park was declared a UNESCO World heritage in 1992.

Simplified Map of Jiu Zhai Gou

The Park’s Entrance (as shown in the map below) is at the northern side of the Park because the map’s orientation is actually upside-down (north side-south). The reasons could be: to imply the ascending elevation of the landscape as you go deeper into the park from its main entrance, and to represent the shape of the valley with the letter “Y”.

The peak season (!st April – 15th November) entry charge was RMB220/person (valid for 2 consecutive days), exclusive of a RMB90/day/person hop-on hop-off bus pass. It was rather effortless to roam the park, as there were bus stops strategically located near all the main scenic spots. However, if you choose to walk, the Y-shape valley is equipped with a 42km long elevated walking path parallel to the bus route, free of charge.

Surreal Colours

The park is a typical karst landscape, with many pools and waterfalls along the Y-shape valley that was formed due to the movement of earth plates. What makes the park stand out is the strange looking spectrum of colours, a symphony of the water bodies and the surrounding.

I visited the park twice (in mid October, 2008 and in early April, 2010), so some of the photos in this blog are autumn colours while some are spring colours.

The water is crystal clear and high in minerals especially calcium, that makes any fallen wood log become an object of exhibit in this giant museum of nature.

While some had fallen, others thrive as if they are reborn from their past life.

Water too clean and too high in minerals is hardly livable to fishes, except for this native highland trout and tadpole that have adapted to this unique aqua system.

Mountains

The valley is surrounded by mountains that reaches the height of more than 4800m. However, the valley has an average elevation of only 2200m. Roaming the valley is usually a pleasant and comfortable trip for all.

Wu Hua Hai 五花海

The tibetans call lakes as “seas”, or “hai zi (海子）to be more accurate, meaning the “child of sea”.

Wu Hua Hai literally means Five Flowers Sea. It is one of the top tourist favourites and a standard model of the numerous lakes in Jiu Zhai Gou.

The water, the algae and the reflection of the surrounding give Wu Hua Hai a charming mix of colours.

Aerial view of Wu Hua Hai, photo taken from the bus.

Nuo Ri Lang Waterfall 诺日朗瀑布

Water is the soul of Jiu Zhai Gou. Of the many water bodies in the Park, Nuo Ri Lang Waterfall is the landmark that sits right in the heart of the Y-shape valley.

Nuo Ri Lang is the largest and tallest waterfall in the Park. It is worshiped as the protective god of this land. A splendid refreshing wind always recharge the energy of pilgrims who come near it.

Shu Zheng Seas 树正群海

Shu Zheng Seas are formed by a few smaller lakes that have different elevation, making them look like terrace water paddy fields.

Reed Sea 芦苇海

The Reed Sea is a beautiful lake with a blue belt of spring water embeded in a golden blanket of reed grass.

Mirror Sea 镜海

Mirror Sea, as its name suggests, gives a perfect reflection of the landscape above it because the water here is always calm.

Wu Cai Chi 五彩池

Wu Cai Chi, or Five Colours Pond, is a small pond. However, it is well revered as the most vibrant and charming pond in the whole park.

The water level of Wu Cai Chi was at it low in the spring of 2010. Its colour is still eye-catching from far, as if a giant sapphire casting a magical spell that can lure your soul away.

The water level of Wu Cai Chi was at its high in the autumn of 2008, the grow in its blue was so idiot-proof to be caught by the lousiest camera in the world.

Long Sea 长海

At the elevation of 3040m, Long Sea is the highest point in the Park accessible by tourist, beside being the longest lake as well.

Huo Hua Hai 火花海

Huo Hua Sea means Sparkling Fire Lake. It is most vibrant in the fall, when the red and yellow autumn leaves fire up the turquoise blue of this quiet lake.

Lying Dragon Sea 卧龙海

There is a distint yellow colour embankment that looks like a dragon in middle of the Lying Dragon Sea.

Shu Zheng Falls 树正瀑布

Shu Zheng Falls is relatively gentle. When admiring from far, you can hardly hear any sound. This tranquil viewpoint makes people fancy the peaceful life of the inhabitants of Shu Zheng Village, just stone throw above the lake.

The People

Even though Jiu Zhai Gou is designated as a National Park, there are still villagers living in the area, who are given the exclusive privilege of free access to the park and to drive home.

The Surrounding

Jia Po Ancient Town 甲蕃古城 was a newly re-constructed “old town” with ethnic Tibetan theme, just a few kilometres from the Park’s Entrance.

You probably need to be invited as the house guest by the natives to enjoy the privilege of staying overnight inside the park. However, hotels and hostels are abundant outside the Park. Intercontinental hotel’s Jiu Zhai Tian Tang (九寨天堂) is among the top range.

Huang Long 黄龙

Huang Long is another attraction in northern Sichuan usually coupled with Jiu Zhai Gou. These two attractions are served by Jiu Huang Airport (九黄机场) , which is situated almost in the halfway of the duo (87km from Jiu Zhai Gou, 55km from Huang Long).

Tourists to Jiu Zhai Gou valley can take the eco-bus to travel a range of landscape from 2000m to 3000m. In comparison, Huang Long Valley requires its visitors to ascend on foot from 3200m to 3500m over a distance of 3.6km. The high altitude and harsh weather, even in warmer months, can pose a challenge to the visitors.

Simplified Map of Huang Long Valley

There are 4 options to explore Huang Long Valley.

1) Walk 5km up from the main entrance to Wu Cai Chi (五彩池), then walk 5km down on the way back to the entrance.

2) Take a ropeway up to a place called Wang Long Ping (望龙坪), walk 2km from Wan Long Ping to Wu Cai Chi, then walk 5km down to the entrance.

3) Walk 5km up from the entrance to Wu Cai Chi, then walk 2km down to Wang Long Ping to take ropeway down.

4) Take ropeway to and fro Wang Long Ping, only walk up and down the 2km in between Wang Long Ping and Wu Cai Chi.

The ropeway cost RMB80/person one way. The ropeway can be a wise choice because the 2km walk from Wang Long Ping to Wu Cai Chi is not as steep as if you walk up directly from the entrance.

‘Huang Long’, just as its meaning in Chinese suggests, looks like a ‘yellow dragon’ from far and beyond, with the yellowish rocky landscape as its body and the calcified pools as its scales.

The calcified pools in Huang Long are probably the best in the world in terms of the numbers, the sizes and the preservation.

The end road of the 5km Huang Long Broad Walk is Wu Cai Chi (五彩池)，or Five Colours Pool, behind the Huang Long Temple.

Not all the pools have the same fate, water is the boss that dictates the well being of the pools.

Although Huang Long’s scenery is not as diverse as Jiu Zhai Gou, it offers its visitors a chance to get very near to the pools at close proximity. It is also more physically challenging for the more adventurous ones.